With the advent of Ravelry, and its awesome pattern delivery service the dream can become a reality. Now I know that you are itching to get your hands on some more beer cozy patterns so I have excerpted a pattern available for free. the pattenr is hosted on Ravelry, but I think everyone should be able to download it Behold! The Sock Yarn Beer Cozy!

last week I was goofing off with my crochet hook and thinking about St. patty’s day. i thought I might make a four-leaf clover… I found a few shamrock patterns, but none of them had 4 leaves! After a few failed attempts, here is my version.

This pattern is probably intermediate in difficulty: it requires that you are able to cast on in a magic ring, double crochet (dc) and treble crochet (tr). it can be done in any yarn as long as you use an appropriately sized crochet hook. The larger one I made used caron simply soft worsted weight yarn and a size F hook.

– [sc in ring, ch 1] 4 times end sc 1.
– sc 2 so you begin work in the space created by the ch1 of the first row.
Work each leaf in the space created by the ch1 of the first row.
– ch1, tr1, dc1, tr1, ch2. slip stitch into sc from first row to end the leaf. sl into space created by ch1 from first row to start the next leaf.

Repeat the leaf pattern 4 times (3 times more) and you should be almost all of the way around.

Make stem:

– ch 5
– sc 4 starting in second ch from hook. (you are working your way back up the stem toward the leaves.
– sl st. break yarn, pull through and weave in the end.

Let me know if you have any problems with the pattern! See if you can trade them for some free beers tonight!

If you have made any other amigurumi, you should be able to make this. I assume that you know how to increase, decrease, and start using a magic ring.
To make your own monster finger filled with chapstick you will need:

• Crochet hook – Size F
• Worsted weight yarn in three colors. I used Cascade 220 wool for the brown and green, and Caron Acrylic for the red.
• button (optional)
• key ring (optional)

This pattern has 3 parts. The fingernail, the finger, and the bloody severed top portion. I’ll give you the pattern for the fingernail first. If you are clever, you can make it first, and have it ready to sew on as soon as the finger is long enough. I always forget to do this.

Fingernail
The fingernail is worked in brown yarn, and is worked flat.

R1: Chain 5
R2 and R3: Sc into second from the end, Sc 3 more.
R4: Decrease twice. Pull end through.

Finger
Work 5 sc using the magic loop method.
R1: *sc 1, inc1 * repeat once. sc1 (7 sts)
R2: *sc2, inc1* repeat 3 times. sc 1 (10 sts)
R3-14: sc all the way around.

This is a big enough circumference for my standard sized chapsticks. After you are done with the increases, you might want to check to see if yours will fit. If not, sneak in another increase on the next row. Continue in the green color until you are just below the top of the chapstick. For me this was row 14. Change to the red yarn.

Severed top
There will be four loops that make up the severed finger top: one large one to wrap around the button, and three decorative – one of which can be used to attach a keyring.
R15: Sc in red
R16: chain 8, sc into base of chain to create loop (you just made the button loop). *Sc1, chain 3, skip1, sc * repeat 3 times (you just made the 3 decorative loops).

If you haven’t already done so, sew on the fingernail. Make sure to place the fingernail towards the “front” of the finger, which is the side opposite the large loop. I just whip-stitched along the edge with the chapstick in the finger so that I didn’t accidentally sew everything closed.

Use the brown yarn to add a knuckle. You can also use green to make some warts (french knots).

Attach the button to the front of the finger, at the top opposite the largest loop. Thread a keychain loop in one of the decorative loops if you wish. (detail photo of top loops)

Now you are ready to creep people out.

I expect that there may be errors in my pattern, so check back for updates (and let me know if my pattern doesn’t make sense!).

Pattern modifications

• Make a long grey fingernail to make it a witches’ finger!
• The fit of the finger is very snug. you might not even want a closure at the top. I think I like it best without one
• Some of the fingers in the pictures are constructed a little differently. Instead of a button closure, I threaded a crocheted chain through the loops to make a drawstring closure. you might prefer this if you aren’t going to attach the finger to a keychain. Plus it makes more creepy, bloody strings to dangle out of the finger.
• I have been addicted to softlips since high school. It is a more narrow chapstick than the standard size, I found that 7 stitches around was enough.

She is quiet (I am too lazy to add a mouth) and she likes to spend her time hanging out on my knitting bag.

Though she is freshly crocheted on the outside, her insides started out as something else…

A failed attempt at a 1 1/4 inch pinback button. my button maker doesn’t mess up too often (when it does it is usually my fault) but I have many off-center or screwed up buttons that I don’t want to throw away. Turning them into sweet little flowers is so much better than throwing them in the trash. So I thought I would tell you how to make them too. but before I do, this pattern is inspired largely by:

– Jezze – She is highlyskilled at making delicate adornments from pins (go buy some from her shop, they are worth it).
– Crochet me – button cover instructions
– finally, the Sampler. Why the sampler? After just a few subscriptions to the sampler I have ended up with many pins that I don’t want to wear, and don’t want to throw away.

Okay, now I can continue. There are a few pictures here in this post, but there are more in my Flickr set.
You will need:

• A few yards of worsted weight yarn, two colors (I used scrap acrylic)
• a 1 1/4 inch pinback button (badge)
• crochet hook appropriate for the yarn. I used G. Keep in mind that the stitches should be tight
• eyes (optional)**
• craft glue (optional)

The center:
Round 1: Sc 6 using the magic loop method. Slip the first stitch to form a circle. Pull the magic loop tight.
Round 2: Sc 2 into each sc from round 1. Repeat all the way around. (Note: I only go through half of the stitch because I like the spiral pattern that it creates).
Round 3: *Sc 2 sc 2 sc 1* all the way around.

At this point my circle was just slightly bigger than my button, so I stopped. You might want to add one more round if yours doesn’t look bigger than the button.
OPTIONAL Round 4: *sc2 sc1* all the way around.

Now, to get the crochet to stay on the pin, we will decrease so it pulls tight around the pin.
Decrease round: *Sc two together* all the way around. It should look something like this

You are done with the center color. Fasten it securely and cut it leaving a long tail.

At this point, you button might still slip out of its newly made cover. This is okay. We will tighten it up later. You can take this time to add eyes easily, or make trouble for yourself by doing it later (which is what I do). Did you see that?

ADD EYES

Just thought I would give you fair warning since I always miss important little instructions like that.

The Petals:
The petals are attached by crocheting a chain around the center that is secured at several points. Each petal is then worked in the gap between the chain and the center.

Attaching the chain:

Attach the new color by slipping it together with one of the decrease stitches.
Chain 3 and then slip one together with another of the decrease stitches, pulling the chain taut.

You need to keep the chain as close to the center as possible, otherwise you will end up with a gap between your petals and the center. Now is the time to evaluate how many of these segments you think will go all the way around the center, as this determines the number of petals your flower will have. Too many? Then chain an extra stitch before attaching it to the decrease stitches.
Continue all the way around.

Now your chain is set up and you can make the petals.
Into each space between the chain and the center: sc1, dc2, tr1, dc2, sc1.

Repeat for each space.

Almost Done… Did you add eyes yet? this is your last chance. Add eyes if you haven’t done so already.
Weave in the ends EXCEPT for the long end you left on the center color.
now we will take the final steps to secure the flower to the pin. I chose to go au naturale and secure mine without the aid of glue. But a dollop of craft glue on the front of the pin would help keep the flower in place, and also help secure the ends. so go for it if you want. Make sure that before the glue is dry you rotate the button so the actual pin is horizontal.

As the last step, we will take the long end and use it to cinch up the back of the flower, pulling it snugly against the pin. Thread the long end on a tapestry needle and run it behind three opposing decrease stitches. make sure not to obscure the pin. pull tight and secure. Viola! Done!

**Stay tuned for a tutorial on how to make your own eyes.

You will need a bit of worsted weight yarn and appropriately sized needles. I used some leftover Ejido from handpaintedyarn.com and size 7 needles – i think the pattern looks extra-nice with variegated yarn. You might want to scrounge up a button or clasp for extra cuteness.

Materials
About an ounce of worsted weight yarn.
Tapestry needle for sewing up edges
US #7 needles
Button
Sharp needle and thread for attaching the button
Crochet hook or double pointed needles for making button loop

Pattern Notes
The pattern is just a stitch pattern on a rectangle that is folded and sewn together. I added selvedge stitches to either side to make it easy to sew up int he end. The first stitch of every row is slipped as if to knit, and the last stitch of every row is purled. It is important to note that the selvedge stitches are slipped with the yarn in the back (knitwise), while the slipped stitches in the patterning are slipped with the yarn in the front (sl wyif).

Pattern
Cast on 26 stitches. I used a long-tail cast-on and it makes a nice decorative edge.

R1 and all WS rows: sl 1, purl remaining stitches.
R2: sl 1, *sl 3 wyif, k3* 4 times, p1
R4: sl 1, k1 * sl 3 wyif, k3* 3 times, sl 3 wyif, k2, p1
R6: sl 1, k2 *sl 3 wyif, k3* 3 times, sl 3 wyif, k1, p1
R8; sl 1, *k3, sl 3 wyif* 4 times, p1
R10: sl 1, sl 1 wyif, *k3, sl 3 wyif* 3 times, k3, sl 2 wyif, p1
R12: sl 1, sl 2 wyif *k3, sl 3 wyif* 3 times, k3, sl 1 wyif, p1
Repeat until cover is about 6.5 inches long, or desired length

Once your tissue cover is about 6.5 inches long, or long enough to wrap around your tissues, bind off. I like mine to have a bit of a tight fit, so that it will remain snug even as the tissues inside get used.

With the wrong side out, fold up the top and bottom to cover the tissues and hold in place with pins. The fold lines are indicated by dashed lines in the pattern schematic.

Sew up the edges. This is made much easier by the selvedge stitches, so even though they are a pain to remember, they are worth it. I also stitch about 1/2 inch along the two edges of the opening on the tissue cover. This helps secure the tissues inside.

Position and sew on the button. To make a loop for the button, either crochet a short chain, or knit a short i-cord, and attach to the edge of the opening.

The final step is to add tissues to your cover. The ones i bought open on the short edge, which is not cute, and not compatible with my cozy. I just took a pair of scissors and cut an opening along the long edge. Then I put them inside, and everything is complete.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons Attribution-Noncommercial-Share Alike 2.5 License.

http://www.girlontherocks.com/knit

Downloadable pdf

Drip

By Karrie Weaver; karrie at girlontherocks.com

You know how sometimes at work you are pounding down coffee and pretending to get something done, but really you are daydreaming about knitting? This coaster is a way to add a little knitting to your cubicle so you always have a finished object to gaze at. It also makes a cozy home for your coffee or tea mug. Two strands of self-striping sock yarn create a mottled pattern, and the fringe finishes the pattern making it very much like a mini-rug for your mug. Make a single coaster as gift for a co-worker, or use up all your sock yarn scraps and make a set.

SIZE
One size fits most mugs.

FINISHED MEASUREMENTS
4 inches square (without fringe).

MATERIALS
I used leftover sock yarn of unknown origin, but a similar substitute would be:

Lana Grossa Meilenweit Multiringel [80% wool, 20% polyamide; 420m per 100g skein]; each coaster will use less than 100 m.

1 set US #1/2.25mm straight needles

notions required: 1 D/3.25mm Crochet Hook, scissors

GAUGE
This is such a quick project, and useful in so many sizes that it is almost easier to knit a coaster instead of a gauge swatch.
24 sts/48 rows = 4″ in garter stitch

PATTERN NOTES
This pattern uses two strands of sock yarn held together. If you use self-striping sock yarn and would like to preserve the original striping pattern, divide your yarn into two balls and match up the yarns at a color change. For a mottled effect, you can pull one strand from the outside and one strand from the inside of a center-pull ball. This method effectively reverses the striping pattern of one strand.

The shape of the coaster is created by a double decrease at the center of every other row where the center three stitches are decreased to one. The clean edge is the result of slipping the first stitch of every row, and purling the last stitch.

PATTERN
Using the long-tail cast on method CO 49 sts.
Row 1: sl 1, k22, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k22, p1. (47 sts)
Row 2 and all even rows: sl 1, knit until 1 st remains, p1.
Row 3: sl 1, k21, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k21, p1. (45 sts)
Row 5: sl 1, k20, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k20, p1. (43 sts)
Row 7: sl 1, k19, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k19, p1. (41 sts)
Row 9: sl 1, k18, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k18, p1. (39 sts)
Row 11: sl 1, k17, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k17, p1. (37 sts)
Row 13: sl 1, k16, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k16, p1. (35 sts)
Row 15: sl 1, k15, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k15, p1. (33 sts)
Row 17: sl 1, k14, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k14, p1. (31 sts)
Row 19: sl 1, k13, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k13, p1. (29 sts)
Row 21: sl 1, k12, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k12, p1. (27 sts)
Row 23: sl 1, k11, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k11, p1. (25 sts)
Row 25: sl 1, k10, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k10, p1. (23 sts)
Row 27: sl 1, k9, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k9, p1. (21 sts)
Row 29: sl 1, k8, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k8, p1. (19 sts)
Row 31: sl 1, k7, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k7, p1. (17 sts)
Row 33: sl 1, k6, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k6, p1. (15 sts)
Row 35: sl 1, k5, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k5, p1. (13 sts)
Row 37: sl 1, k4, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k4, p1. (11 sts)
Row 39: sl 1, k3, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k3, p1. (9 sts)
Row 41: sl 1, k2, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k2, p1. (7 sts)
Row 43: sl 1, k1, sl 1, k2tog, psso, k1, p1. (5 sts)
Row 45: sl 2, k2tog, psso, k1, p1. (3 sts rem)
Row 47: k2tog, psso (1 stitch remains)

Break yarn and pull through the single remaining stitch until tight.

FINISHING
Weave in ends.
Adding fringe: for additional help watch the video here
Each tassel of fringe is made with two strands of yarn, attached to the edge of the coaster with a crochet hook, and trimmed to an even length. Cut approximately 50 strands of yarn, each about 4.5 inches long. Take two strands held together and fold them in half to make a loop. Insert the crochet hook behind the selvage stitches at the end of the row, and then through the loop you have created. Pull the loop through and leave it on the crochet hook (the ends of the yarn should still be in your hand). Continuing to hold the yarn taut, wrap all of it around the crochet hook and pull it through the loop, attaching it to the edge of the coaster. Pull the strands taught. Repeat this along the side of the coaster. When you have placed fringe on two sides of the coaster, use scissors to trim it to an even length.

Here are the specs:

I cast on 23 stitches on 10 1/2 needles and knit in “mistake rib.”
Right side and Wrong side rows are knit the same:
K2, P2 for the whole row and end K2 P1.

It makes a gentle rib that doesn’t bunch up too tightly. It Is half done already!

Edit: Finished size is 84 inches.

needles: 4 double pointed US#4, 4 double pointed US#5
yarn: Endless summer collection lara – main color (MC) less than 50m, small amount of a complimentary color
(CC) for the stripes (currently available at elann.com). you could use just about any sport
weight
yarn.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons License.

Yarn: Schachenmayr Rainbow (worsted weight)
Needles: 4 double pointed #6 US, and a cable needle

Cast on 36 stitches.
{brackets} indicate the cable
part of the pattern

row 1-4: *k2 p2 k2 p2 k2 {p1 k6 p1}* repeat from * to *.
row 5: *k2 p2 k2 p2 k2 {p1 place 3 stitches on cable needle and hold behind work, k3, k3 from cable needle, p1}* repeat from * to *.
Continue repeating rows 1-5 until cozy is as tall as the body of the beer bottle that you would like it to fit (mine is about 6 inches). The decreases occur only in the ribbed portion of the pattern, so you should continue the cable as above throughout the decreases.

Begin Decreases:
decrease row 1: *k2 p2 k2 p2tog k2 {cable continued from above}* repeat from * to *. (34 stitches remain).
decrease row 2: *k2 p2tog k2 p1 k2 {cable}* repeat from * to *. (32 stitches
remain).
decrease row 3: *k2 k2tog k1 p1 k2 {cable}* repeat from * to *. (30 stitches
remain).
decrease row 4: *k4 k2tog k1 {cable}* repeat from * to *. (28 stitches
remain).< Decreases finished! Continue with the following pattern until the neck of your cozy is as long as you wish. Neck rows: k6 {cable} k6 {cable}.

This work is licensed under a Creative Commons License.